A
pair of fish eagles guards the gentle bay, their distinctive black,
white and chestnut feather pattern gleaming boldly in the morning sun.
Suddenly, the birds toss back their heads in a piercing, evocative duet.
On the sandbank below, a well-fed monster of a crocodile snaps to life,
startled from its nap. It stampedes through the crunchy undergrowth,
crashing into the water in front of the boat, invisible except for a
pair of sentry-post eyes that peek menacingly above the surface to
monitor our movements.
Rubondo
Island is tucked in the southwest corner of Lake Victoria, the world's
second-largest lake, an inland sea sprawling between Tanzania, Uganda
and Kenya. With nine smaller islands under its wing, Rubondo protects
precious fish breeding grounds.
Tasty
tilapia form the staple diet of the yellow-spotted otters that frolic
in the island’s rocky coves, while rapacious Nile perch, some weighing
more than 100kg, tempt recreational game fishermen seeking world record
catches.
Rubondo is more than a water
wonderland. Deserted sandy beaches nestle against a cloak of virgin
forest, where dappled bushbuck move fleet yet silent through a maze of
tamarinds, wild palms, and sycamore figs strung with a cage of trailing
taproots.
The
shaggy-coated aquatic sitatunga, elsewhere the most elusive of
antelopes, is remarkably easily observed, not only in the papyrus swamps
it normally inhabits, but also in the forest interior.
Birds are everywhere.
Birds are everywhere.
Flocks
of African grey parrots – released onto the island after they were
confiscated from illegal exporters – screech in comic discord as they
flap furiously between the trees.
The
azure brilliance of a malachite kingfisher perched low on the reeds
competes with the glamorous, flowing tail of a paradise flycatcher as it
flits through the lakeshore forest. Herons, storks and spoonbills
proliferate in the swampy lake fringes, supplemented by thousands of
Eurasian migrants during the northern winter.
Wild jasmine, 40 different orchids and a smorgasbord of sweet, indefinable smells emanate from the forest.
Ninety percent of the park is humid forest; the remainder ranges from open grassland to lakeside papyrus beds.
A
number of indigenous mammal species - hippo, vervet monkey, genet and
mongoose - share their protected habitat with introduced species such as
chimpanzee, black-and-white colobus, elephant and giraffe, all of which
benefit from Rubondo's inaccessibility.
About Rubondo Island National Park
Size: 457 sq km (176 sq miles).
Location: Northwest Tanzania, 150 km (95 miles) west of Mwanza.
Size: 457 sq km (176 sq miles).
Location: Northwest Tanzania, 150 km (95 miles) west of Mwanza.
Getting there
Scheduled flights from Arusha, Lake Manyara, Serengeti and Mwanza in peak season, charter flights only in low season.
By road from Mwanza and then boat transfer. Contact the Park for transport details.
Scheduled flights from Arusha, Lake Manyara, Serengeti and Mwanza in peak season, charter flights only in low season.
By road from Mwanza and then boat transfer. Contact the Park for transport details.
When to go
Dry season, June-August. Wildflowers and butterflies
Wet season November-March. December- February best for migratory birds.
Dry season, June-August. Wildflowers and butterflies
Wet season November-March. December- February best for migratory birds.
Accommodation
Accommodation in the park includes one Luxury tented camp - owned by a private company called Safari legancy.
Self contained and self catering visitor bandas, a campsite and hostel which are owned by the park.
Accommodation in the park includes one Luxury tented camp - owned by a private company called Safari legancy.
Self contained and self catering visitor bandas, a campsite and hostel which are owned by the park.
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